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Building The Basic Toolbox: Part 1
----------------------> By Karl Hansen
| | :: Toolbox ::Introductory and advanced information on the use of hand tools as well as tips on routine household maintenance such as fixing a bike, patching a hole in a wall and maintaining your first car.
There is nothing manlier than tools. The urge to build and create is at the very core of a guy's existence. In this section of the site, M.O.T.H. will not only assist you with the terminology, but also how to tackle some of the more common maintenances, repairs, and builds.
This will be an ongoing series so if you don't see something that interests you now, come back again and see what we're working on.
Before we get into the how-to and projects side of these segments, we first have to introduce the MOTH toolbox. Most mistakes made by guys of all ages is using the wrong tool for the job. So we're going to give you an idea of what the basic toolbox should include and what those tools are used for. This is going to get broken down into two parts: (1) basic hand tools and; (2) power tools/miscellaneous. Enough with chit chat let’s dive right into things.
Part 1: Basic Hand Tools
Tape Measure - You've seen them. You know what they are and how to use them. However, this can't be stressed enough, in fact it is even a carpenter’s saying “Measure twice, cut once”. You really can’t measure too much. There is no such thing as "eyeballing it" when it comes to sound repairs and construction. A little off here and a little off there and a whole project is ruined. A tape measure should be with you at all times.
Screwdrivers - These come in all different sizes with several different types of screw tips. The most common are the Phillips (+) and flathead (-). You usually can't take something apart or put it back together again without a screwdriver. My personal favorite is a ratchet screwdriver with a magnetic tip. It holds the screw in place and makes it so you don't have to reset the screw driver while turning it. These types of screwdrivers also have interchangeable screw bits and a set of bits for all occasions is only about $5.
A common mistake people make is to use a power-drill to screw or unscrew something that should have been screwed by hand using a screw driver. As a rule of thumb, for any fine/polished metal surface, especially brass screws, screws used on decorative home elements (hinges, towel rack etc), or fine electronics you need to hand screw the item. In some cases, you can start with a power drill but tighten with a hand screw so you don't strip the head.
Allen Wrenches - An Allen Wrench is usually an "L" shaped bar with a hexagonal (six sided) head at either end. These come in a variety of sizes. Furniture and some bicycles use Allen head screws. You can also find Allen wrench bits for a ratchet screw driver (see above picture).
Pliers - You'll need three kinds of pliers for your toolbox. Regular, needle nose, and vise grip. Regular pliers have teeth that grab on to things and work like scissors in that the grip is the same and the amount of pressure comes from how hard you squeeze the handles. You'll need these for holding bolts steady while tightening nuts or for anything where you need to grab hold of something. There is also an adjustable pliers that works the same way, but one of the gripper sides and handle is on an adjustable slide so you can work on a range of different size nuts/bolts.
Needle Nose pliers are used exactly like regular pliers except that they come to a point allowing you to grab things in tight places or getting really small items. I probably use these more for holding wires or nails in tight spots then for anything else.
Vise grip pliers have a bolt at the button of one handle and a release lever. The bolt is attached to a tension spring allowing you grab hold of something and hold it even after you let go of the pliers. This is useful when gluing something together, you need a third hand to hold something for you, or you need extra grip and leverage to get a bolt/nut to turn.
Level - There are several variations on the level, but each has the same basic element that makes it a level. A metal or plastic rectangular frame has a vile with liquid in the center of the frame. Usually the vile has two lines marking it into thirds. Also in the vials is a bubble of air. When held up against a board or wall the bubble will move depending on the angle you hold the frame. When the bubble is centered between the two marks it means the frame is level. Using a pencil to draw a line against the frame will give you the perfect angle to hang pictures, put up a shelf, or align an addition to a structure like the cross beam on a bird house. Some levels get fancier with several vials for different angles or an added ruler.
Claw Hammer - This is the basic hammer you've seen. The claw just means there is a claw on one end to pry nails out with. The most basic hammer usually has a wood handle with a metal head glued to it. The more expensive hammers tend to be made out of metal or metal composites and have the hammer head welded to the handle. All hammers serve the same function, to pound things. The claw hammer is specifically designed with wood nails in mind.
Rubber Mallet - An alternative to the claw hammer is the Rubber Mallet. You use a rubber mallet when you need to secure or loosen something without damaging its surface - such as polished metals, ceramics, and finished wood. For instance when you tap down floor tile onto wet-cement - a claw hammer would crack the tile. If you don't have a rubber mallet, place something between the surface and the claw hammer such as a rag and scrap of wood to soften the blow of the claw hammer.
Hand Drill - From ages ago comes the most basic non-power tool drill. These are still on the market but are becoming very rare. Nobody uses a hand crank to drill a hole any more besides woodworkers who hold dear the traditions of yesteryear. Everything today is drilled with a power tool. However, you can usually pick up one of these at a flea market or yard sale on the cheap. It works much like a hand cranked egg beater or pencil sharpener. You move the handle and it cause the drill bit to spin.
Wood Saw and Miter Box - You've seen a saw before but probably not a Miter box. The saw and box can be found as a set or bought individually. The box is most often yellow. "Box" might not be the most accurate name for it since it is essentially a bottom and two long sides shaped like a rectangle. The sides have slots in them at different angles. By placing a 2X4 piece of wood between the sides and inserting the saw in to the desired angle slot, you can saw (or cut) a piece of wood to the perfect angle you need. It doesn't just have to be wood either. Anything that can fit between the two sides can be cut this way. TIP: When sawing wood it is easier to start an angle rather than straight across.
Hack Saw - A hack saw is used to specifically cut metal. Its teeth are usually finer, closer together, and made out of a stronger metal. There is a handle at one end with a curved connector that extends from it to hold the other side of the saw blade. This saw also come in a mini version which is the one I have and is pictured below.
Ratchet/Socket Wrench - A ratchet or socket wrench and set of sockets are used to remove or tighten nuts and bolts. One end of a socket is squared so it can fit onto the wrench. The other end is the shape of the nut or bolt you want to turn. There is usually a switch on the back of a ratchet that allows you to change the direction the wrench will turn the bolt. The sockets come in different sizes in both metric and inches to match up exactly. There is also a button on the back of the wrench that will release the socket. A set usually also comes with an extension of some kind to help get into to tight places.
COST SAVING TIP: It's good to have a wide range of socket sizes both metric and standard (inches). In most cases you want to buy quality tools because they'll last you a lifetime. But that can be expensive when you're talking about 50+ socket sizes. Most sizes you'll either never use, or only use once every few years; but you want to have them handy just in case. You need quality sockets that can handle the beating for the sizes you use very often. So how do you know what to buy? You can buy large sets of sockets pretty cheap, especially around the holidays. That'll give you one of everything. These sockets are prone to breakage under routine use, but that's okay - because as they break you discover that the broken one is one you need to replace with a quality socket such as Craftsman or Kobalt.
Wrench/Double Ended Wrench - the basic wrench is also used for removing or tightening nuts and bolts. The difference is that without the ratcheting function you have to remove the wrench form the nut/bolt and reset it to keep turning it. A double ended wrench will have one size on one end and a slightly smaller size on the other end, usually in quarter inch steps. Or it will have the same size on both sides but one side will be an open crescent end and the other a "box-end".
These wrenches come in both inches and metric sizes. You might be asking, “If the Socket wrench is easier to use why even have regular wrenches?” The answer to that is simple. While sockets do come in several different sizes ultimately you meet a nut/bolt that a socket can’t be placed over and you have to go at it from the side. Sometimes limited space makes this wrench the only tool that works.
Adjustable/Crescent Wrench looks similar to the basic wrench except for a screw right below the "U". When the screw is turned, one side of the wrench will get closer to the other side and if turned the other way it will move further apart. The idea is that it works on several different sizes of nuts/bolts.
Crescent wrenches are prone to stripping the edges off of nuts because they do not have as secure a fit over the nut as a box wrench or socket so when force is applied the slip around the nut. Therefore, it is always preferable to use a wrench made for the size of the nut rather than an adjustable wrench.
The Pipe Wrench or Monkey Wrench is a type of adjustable wrench. It usually has gripping teeth to really grab hold and is also made of a much heavy metal to allow a greater use of force. This wrench is used for pipes and heavy machinery. While technically it isn't a Monkey wrench its similarity in design often has it designated as such.
Sand paper/file - Sanding is a very tedious task. It is hard work and takes time and repetition. The pay off for getting a rough piece of wood/metal/plastic down to a super smooth surface is worth it though. Sand Paper can also be used to remove paint or rust. Mostly it is used for finished sanding because it does not take a lot off at once. Sand paper comes in different grits. The higher the number, the more particles it has per square inch, the finer the grit. If you want a smoother surface work your way up from a smaller number grit to a larger number grit. For larger jobs you may want to use a sanding block. Attach the sand paper to the block and move the block rather than the paper. They also have sponge like blocks that have the sanding surface already on it to make work a little easier. Either of these will save your hands, trust me. Files are used for the same purpose but tend to get relegated to just metals and plastics. You'll find a variety of sizes, shapes (straight, flat, curved, pointed), and different teeth sizes available.
Caulking gun - A caulking gun has very little in common with a gun and is more of a squeezing tool than anything else. It applies pressure to a tube of caulk and makes it come out like glue. Caulk is used to seal gaps in a building. In my home there is caulk around the sinks and around the outside of the windows to keep water from seeping in and rotting the surrounding wood. Cutting the tip of the tube at an angle and at the size of the bead you want will allow you to work quicker and with less mess. It isn’t used often but it is one of those simple things to do that once you learn you’ll never forget.
Pry Bar – If there is a nail or screw that just won’t come out; if there is a board or brick that you need to remove; if there is a crate you need to open, then only a pry bar will work. Much like the claw on a hammer, this is a leverage tool made for separating items. The biggest difference is that a pry bar is able to get in places a hammer won’t. Plus its length will make the wedging a whole lot easier.
Staple gun and staples – A staple gun is used anywhere there is something you want tied down and to stay put. Some common uses are for laying down carpet, running a cable across the room, attaching insulation in the walls.
It’s not a good idea to use a staple gun to secure electrical lines because of the risk of piercing the wire's insulation which could lead to electric shock, electrocution, or fire.
Check out Part 2 in this series when we’ll cover the manliest of power tools and other items you’ll need to help out.
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